Make your Air Conditioning Blow Colder with CerBond HVAC Treatment

May 12, 2010

With the summertime coming up on us quickly here in Texas, we hear questions every day about automotive air conditioning.  It’s pretty easy and obvious to know when your Air Conditioning isn’t working at all, but what if it just doesn’t seem cold enough?  Here at Richardson’s Auto Care, we have finally found a way to get an extra 10-15 degrees of cooling out of your Air Conditioning system – CerBond HVAC Treatment.

In our many years in business, we have seen plenty of tricks and additives that are “supposed to” improve any aspect of your car’s performance, and so we’re quite skeptical.  However, in the last year of testing with CerBond HVAC Treatment, we have seen a reduction of 10-15 degrees in air temperature coming out of the vents on nearly every car we have treated.  CerBond is a synthetic ceramic substance that is injected into your A/C system with the refrigerant.  The ceramic particles penetrate the surface of your system’s metal components and become a hard, smooth, glass-like coating.  This smooth coating on the chamber of your compressor increases sealing while reducing friction, to allow your A/C compressor to pump more efficiently.  Also, the ceramic coating formed inside your evaporator and condensor reduce excessive oil buildup, to increase thermal transfer through these components.

What does this all mean to you?  It means colder air from your vents and smoother, quieter operation of your A/C system.  On household Air Conditioning systems, the increased efficiency also means lower electric bills every month.  Contact Richardson’s Auto Care or today to find out how to have CerBond installed in your system.

Richardson’s Auto Care
11170 Ables Lane
Dallas, TX 75229
(972) 243-1204

What causes your Check Engine Light to come on?

March 5, 2010

Almost everyone has been driving along at some point when their little yellow “Check Engine” or “Service Engine Soon” light pops on with no warning.  Even though most people have experienced it, the check engine light is one of the most misunderstood lights on the dashboard, and knowing what to do to resolve it takes an understanding of what makes it come on.

check engine light

A Typical Check Engine Light

What is a Check Engine Light?

The check engine light is part of your vehicle’s engine management and onboard diagnostics system.  The lamp may read “Check Engine” or “Service Engine Soon”, or may simply show a picture of an engine(shown at right), possibly with the word “Check” or “Service”.  The light is connected directly to the engine control module (ECM), the computer that controls the vehicle’s engine.  The ECM turns the light on, and only when it detects that something is amiss.  The ECM is a computer, so the only way it can tell what is happening in your engine is through electronic signals from an array of sensors mounted throughout the vehicle.  It uses the information it gathers to control the engine’s operation, and to diagnose problems.  Since this information is being transmitted electronically, electrical glitches, loose connections, or faulty sensors can confuse the ECM and cause a Check Engine lamp as well.

The information gathered by the ECM tells the computer about atmospheric conditions, driver inputs, engine parameters, exhaust emissions, and other vehicle systems.  This info  is used to control many aspects of the engine’s performance, including the amount of fuel injected into the engine, ignition timing,  idle speed, and throttle angle on most new vehicle.  When the ECM senses an error and turns on the “Check Engine” light, the computer will often enter a “limp-home” mode, which controls the engine using the available good information, but does not offer the best possible fuel economy and engine performance.  The sophisticated ECM can compensate for many small problems, meaning that while you may not feel a difference in the way the vehicle drives, fuel economy is likely going to be affected, and other components may be damaged by long term driving with the check engine lamp on.

DTC’s and Check Engine Light Diagnostics

So what kinds of errors actually turn on the light, and how does a technician diagnose the problem?  Whenever the ECM detects a problem, it will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in it’s memory, which relates to the problem found.  Computers are strictly math-based, and their logic is very concrete, so for a specific DTC to set, certain parameters must be met.  For instance, an ECM’s parameters may state that the Intake Air Temperature sensor must always read between -40F and 240F.  This makes sense, because it is highly unlikely that anyone would be driving around in weather beyond these extremes.  Thus, if the computer were to read 241F on the Intake Air Temperature sensor, a DTC would set, likely DTC P0111 “Intake Air Temp sensor range/performance”.  A technician diagnosing this vehicle would then know why the light is turned on, because the ECM measured intake air temperature that was out of range.  Now the tech has to determine WHY the intake air temp was out of range.  If the car happens to be driven in the arctic circle, there’s always the possibility that the vehicle actually experienced air temperatures that were out of range on a -42F day.  More likely however, the ECM is receiving the wrong information.  This information comes from the Intake Air Temperature sensor, through some wires and connectors, and into the ECM.  The technician now must verify where the problem lies, likely in a wire, a connector, or a sensor.  Once the technician has tested the wiring and voltages from the sensor to the ECM, he can determine what repairs are needed.

The air temperature sensor is a fairly simple diagnosis, because an air temperature signal is directly related to a measurable value, air temperature.  The technician can simply test outside temperature, compare the the ECM’s value, and see if there is a problem.  However, most DTC’s are set based on more complex derived values.  For instance, a common DTC is P0141 “Bank One Fuel Trim Too Lean”.  This DTC sets when the computer senses that there is not enough fuel entering the engine to match the amount of air that it believes is entering the engine.  The computer assesses the Air to Fuel ratio based on information received from Oxygen Sensors or A/F Ratio Sensors mounted in the exhaust system, which tell the ECM how much oxygen and/or unburnt fuel is leaving the engine through the exhaust pipe.

First off, the ECM may be receiving an improper oxygen sensor reading, meaning the ratio may actually be correct, but the ECM doesn’t think so.  If the Air/Fuel Ratio actually is leaner than expected for the measured airflow into the engine, the measured airflow information entering the ECM may be wrong, caused by a faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, or by a physical issue like an intake air leak causing air to enter the engine without passing through the MAF sensor on it’s way in.  If the computer is found to have the correct information regarding Airflow and Air/Fuel Ratio, then the problem could be fuel derived, caused by low fuel pressure, plugged fuel injectors, a restricted fuel filter, or even a bad tank of gasoline or gasoline with an excessive ethanol mixture.  Obviously, a DTC does not simply tell you what part to replace, it tells you which information does not sound correct, and the technician is then required to diagnose the problem to find where this incorrect information comes from.

Loose Fuel Cap?

Another common confusing cause of a Check Engine light is a loose or faulty fuel cap.  Many people are very confused as to why this turns the lamp on, and why simply tightening the cap doesn’t turn the lamp back off.

The ECM on all vehicle from 1996 and newer is required by Federal Law to adhere to a set of parameters know as OBD-II.  The OBD-II parameters require that the ECM keeps the vehicle running in a manner to achieve high fuel economy and low emissions, and performs certain regular test to the vehicle’s system to ensure all emissions systems are operating correctly.  The fuel cap is a part of the Evaporative Emissions or EVAP system, which ensures that no gasoline vapors can leave the vehicle and pollute the atmosphere.  If a fuel system had a leak, or a gas cap was missing or did not seal, the vehicle would constantly give off fuel vapors through evaporation.

EVAP System Chart

A basic EVAP Monitoring system

To ensure that the fuel system is properly sealed, the vehicle routinely performs a test known as the EVAP Monitor, which checks the fuel system for leaks.  The EVAP Monitor test applies a vacuum to the entire fuel system, then seals the system and measures the amount of time required for that vacuum pressure to leak away.  The test is very accurate, and can detect a leak as small as 0.020″ in diameter.  When the fuel cap is loose or missing, this test will fail and light the Check Engine light.

For a very accurate EVAP Monitor test to complete, a certain set of parameters must be met.  On most vehicles, the fuel tank must be between 1/4 and 3/4 full, and the vehicle must be started cold, within a certain external temperature range.  The vehicle must then be driven within a narrow speed range for a set amount of time.  For a Check Engine lamp to turn off after a failed EVAP Monitor, the monitor must run and pass two more times, which may take a few days of driving.  Thus, the lamp won’t shut itself off immediately after retightening or replacing the fuel cap.  And of course, while the fuel cap is a likely suspect for an EVAP system leak, the leak could also come from a piece of tubing, o-ring, seal, or a crack in a component.  This is why even an EVAP system DTC may require quite a bit of diagnostics (leak detection is usually accomplished by using a special smoke machine to pressurize the whole system with a mist of smoke, and searching for the spot where the smoke leaks out).

Finding a Qualified Technician

Now that you have an understanding of the diagnostic process, it has become apparent that a technician must have quite a bit of electronic knowledge, as well as a good understanding of how these complex systems work to thoroughly diagnose your check engine light.  How do you find a good, qualified technician?  The National Institute of Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) certified vehicle technicians in many areas of Automotive repair.  Since 1994, ASE has offered an Advanced Engine Performance Specialist (L1) certification that qualifies a technician’s knowledge of Computer Controlled emissions and drivability systems.  To earn L1 certification, a technician must already possess certification in Engine Repair and Engine Performance, and then pass an Advanced Level test that tests their diagnostic skills on current vehicle technology.

Here at Richardson Auto Care, all of our Technicians hold ASE Certification.  Both Jeff and Rob hold ASE Master Automotive Technician certifications, meaning they have received all 8 major Automotive certifications.  Rob is also certified as an Advanced Engine Performance Specialist (L1) and an ASE certified Medium/Heavy Duty Truck Technician.  Rather than waste your time and money on incorrect diagnostics and repairs, give us a call at 972-243-1204 to schedule an appointment and have you Check Engine lamp properly diagnosed.

What is involved in your Timing Belt Replacement?

March 3, 2010
Timing Belt Illustration

Timing Belt Components

At Richardson Auto Care, we’ve been performing Timing Belt replacements on all models of vehicles for over 20 years.  Let’s take a minute to discuss what’s involved in your timing belt replacement, and how to make sure your timing belt is being replaced properly to save your money down the road.    Let’s first take a look at the vital job your Timing Belt plays during it’s role in your engine.  The Timing Belt on your vehicle connects the Crankshaft (which turns when the pistons move up and down), to the Camshafts (which make the valves move up and down when it turns) .  The job of the Timing Belt is to keep the camshafts “in time”, or to make sure the valves open and close when the piston is in the proper position.  A timing belt failure will cause the camshaft and crankshaft to get out of time, which can lead to valve crashing into a piston and causing severe engine damage.  The Timing Belt Tensioner assembly keeps the proper tension on the belt at all times.  On most all Timing Belt equipped vehicles, the timing belt also serves the purpose of driving the water pump, and one or more idler pulleys guide the timing belt to make it fit properly under the timing cover.

Timing Belt in Vehicle

Timing Belt in vehicle, with parts removed for access.

So what’s actually involved in properly replacing the Timing Belt on your vehicle?  Generally, quite a few accessories and other parts have to come off of the engine to access the timing belt cover, which then has to be removed to access the belt.   This work can be quite labor intensive, which is why most timing belt services have a much higher labor cost than parts cost, so while the accessories and cover are off is the proper time to address all of the components inside of the timing cover.

The speed at which the crankshaft turns is the Engine RPM, and will fluctuate between 600 and 6000 revolutions per minute, meaning it can turn over 100 times per second during your drive.  The water pump, tensioner pulley, and idlers pulleys spin at basically the same speed as the crankshaft at all times. By the time the average Timing Belt is replaced (generally recommended at 90,000 miles on most vehicles), all of these pulleys have spun over 350,000,000 times on the average vehicle.  A failure of any of these components will require removing the timing belt again (and may cause severe engine damage if it causes the belt to come off or break).  As such, replacement of the water pump, tensioner pulley, and idler pulleys is recommended at the same time as Timing Belt Replacement on all vehicles equipped with these parts.  The timing belt replacement interval is usually at the same time as other recommended maintenance and fluid changes.  Due to some overlapping services, you will also save money by completing all of this maintenance together at one time (for example, the coolant must be drained and replaced to replace the water pump, saving you the cost of a separate coolant service).

Come see the Experts at Richardson Auto Care, or give us a call or e-mail, to get a quote on your complete timing belt service and 90,000 mile maintenance package.  We’ll be happy to show you how proper maintenance, and completing the job right the first time, can save you plenty of money in the long run.

7 Great Gas-Saving Tips

March 2, 2010

Welcome to Richardson Auto Care’s Car Care Tips blog, as our first post, we would of course like to thank you for viewing and being a loyal customer.

Let’s start this whole thing off with some basic tips to help keep your fuel mileage up….I gathered these from

Fill up with a lower-octane gasoline. Buy the lowest grade or octane of gasoline that is appropriate for your car. Unless your car requires premium gasoline, filling up your car with high-octane fuel is a waste of money. That pricey premium fuel won’t boost your car’s fuel economy or performance in the least, so skip it.

If you’re not sure what grade of fuel works best for your car, open up your owner’s manual and take a look. As long as your engine doesn’t knock or ping when you fuel up with regular unleaded, you’re good to drive on this much cheaper gas. Passing on pricey premium gasoline could save you hundreds of dollars a year.

Use your garage for your car. Got a garage? Clear it out and make room for your car. Parking in your garage will help your car stay warm in winter and cool in summer, and you won’t have to depend as much on your gas-guzzling air-conditioning or defroster when you drive.

Pump up your tires. Don’t get caught driving on underinflated tires. Underinflated tires wear down more quickly and they also lower your car’s gas mileage.

“Tires that have low pressure offer more resistance so the engine is going to work harder to keep the car at 60,” says Brian Moody, road test editor at

Your car’s gas mileage may plummet by as much as 15 percent. Driving on underinflated tires may also reduce the life of your tires by 15 percent or more.

Buy a digital gauge and keep it in your glove box. Compare the pressure in your tires with the recommended pressure listed in your owner’s manual and on the placard in your car door. Then inflate your tires as needed. Be sure to check tire pressure when your tires are cold. A good time is early in the morning after your car’s been idle overnight.

Keep your engine in tune. Fixing a car that is out of tune or has failed an emissions test can boost gas mileage by about 4 percent. So be sure to give your car regular tune-ups. You’ll also want to watch out for worn spark plugs. A misfiring spark plug can reduce a car’s fuel efficiency by as much as 30 percent.

Replace air filters. Keep a close eye on your engine’s air filter. When the engine air filter clogs with dirt, dust and bugs, it causes your engine to work harder and your car becomes less fuel-efficient. Replacing a clogged air filter could improve your gas mileage by as much as 10 percent and save you 15 cents a gallon. It’s a good idea to have your engine air filter checked at each oil change. The Car Care Council recommends changing your car’s air and oil filters every three months or 3,000 miles or as specified in your owner’s manual.

Use the right oil. You can improve your car’s gas mileage by 1 percent to 2 percent by using the manufacturer’s recommended grade of motor oil. Opt for motor oil with the words “energy conserving” on the API performance label. This oil contains friction-reducing additives.

Don’t skimp on maintenance. Be serious about auto care. Your car’s performance depends on it.

“Always follow the manufacturer-recommended maintenance,” Moody says. “The car’s designed to run a certain way. If you neglect it, it won’t be as efficient.”